Wake at the break of day under the golden pyramids of godlike kings of old, traverse a searing desert to the place where two Niles become one, and watch a million blood-red fish swarm through gardens of coral. Whichever way you look at it, there’s just no denying that among Sudan’s sweeping hills of sand lie treasures the rest of the world are only just beginning to discover. For the few travellers who venture here, Sudan comes as a fantastic surprise. Visitors invariably agree that the Sudanese are among the friendliest and most hospitable people on earth. And although various ongoing conflicts mean part of this vast nation remains off limits, the northeast is one of the safest places in the world. Whether you rush through on a Cairo-to–Cape Town trip, or spend a slow month soaking up the history and hospitality, visiting Sudan is a memorable experience.